Saying yes to computers

Pringle of Scotland addresses the future of fashion

Text by Naomi bikis

Photography by Jonas Lindstroem

Styling by Bobby Hook

Pringle of Scotland’s last serious innovation arrived in the early 1950s: the twinset. Since then, the brand has produced an endless stream of golfing sweaters in its signature diamond pattern. But over the last two seasons,
it has embraced a new revolution – the digital age.

“The attempt was to work any type of tool I was given, traditional or innovative, in a very accessible way,” explains Pringle’s creative d irector Massimo Nicosia. “Something wearable is very modern; over-conceptualising fashion is not.” Researching materials for AW14, he came across the work of Richard Beckett, a materials scientist and architect who is exploring digital fabrication. Nicosia knew little of the technology’s intricacies, but nevertheless challenged Beckett to mix traditional cashmere with that most artificial of materials, nylon powder.

“Interweaving through 3D printing is what emerged,” Nicosia explains. The AW14 collection incorporated the resulting high-tech chainmail panels into traditional, handwoven roll-neck jumpers. “The SS15 collection was about trying to lighten knitwear to the very limit,” he continues. “I am trying to work 3D printing not as embellishment but as a fabric.”

The collection features silky racer-back tops, dresses with Perspex triangles in relief and sleeveless knits incorporating 3D printed panels attached using a crochet technique. Not that you can tell which pieces use the technology – which is how Nicosia likes it. “I am enjoying blurring the lines between what is knitwear, what is woven and what is 3D printed,” he says. “I like to keep a sense of naïvety in this technology somehow. As soon as you become too much of an expert in this technology, you feel stuck in it. If you have a naïve approach, you’re like a kid working with a touchscreen: they don’t even question why it’s working this way. This is good because you ask for the impossible.”

Hair: Takuya Uchiyama using Bumble and bumble and Bed Head by TIGI
Make-up: Emily Mergaert using Tom Ford Beauty
Videography: Martin Senyszak
Set design: George Lewin
Photography assistant: Kareem Abdu
Styling assistant: Molly Knot
Hair assistant: Marine Tagawa
Set design assistant: Bryony Edwards
Models: Zen at IMG London and Duncan Pyke at Premier Model Management

Thanks to Jelica at Apiary Studios

  • Pringle of Scotland