Don't ask, don't tell

Vetements is cloaked in mystery

Text by Naomi Bikis

Photography by Jonas Lindstroem

Styling by Bobby Hook

“Fashion is so overpopulated and oversupplied with ideas that at some point in the future (and even already) the fame of a designer will not be able to assure the credibility of their work,” says the collective Vetements over e-mail. “At least that is what we hope.”

It is of little surprise that some of the group (how many, they won’t disclose) cut their teeth in the studio of the famously elusive Martin Margiela, of whom there is only one press shot in circulation. “It surely shaped a certain aesthetic and the creative approach. We learned to study clothes themselves and to neglect the storytelling,” they say. “However, it is an old Margiela aesthetic that we grew up on. What we desire today is modern – it’s what people wear right now.”

With Vetements, nothing is precious: the hem of a pair of jeans is wonky and frayed, shirtsleeves trail over the hands, one dress is stitched on top of another, leather jackets are so oversized that they are near comical. Vetements’ deconstructions lend attitude to their conceptual approach. They understand that clothes aren’t always hung in walk-in wardrobes, but rather tossed about and worn until they fall apart.

Vetements is democratic: “Everyone participates on different levels of making of the collection, a lot of brainstorming. However, everyone has full responsibilities in their specific field, whether it is fabric research or draping or concept development or market research.”

Since the SS15 show, Demna Gvasalia has emerged as one of the designers, but from the beginning, Vetements decided to push the product rather than personalities. “There is no concept of anonymity whatsoever,” they conclude. “It’s a ‘don’t ask, don’t tell’ policy.”

Hair: Takuya Uchiyama using Bumble and bumble and Bed Head by TIGI
Make-up: Emily Mergaert using Tom Ford Beauty
Videography: Martin Senyszak
Set design: George Lewin
Photography assistant: Kareem Abdu
Styling assistant: Molly Knot
Hair assistant: Marine Tagawa
Set design assistant: Bryony Edwards
Models: Zen at IMG London and Duncan Pyke at Premier Model Management

Thanks to Jelica at Apiary Studios

  • Vetements
  • Vetements