Measure for measure

Recipes are a mixture of art and science – the delicacy of measurement and the uncertain caprices of taste

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The custom of eating a shoulder of lamb at a Passover Seder originated in 70AD. Whether the lamb should be roasted or cooked with water in the oven is still hotly debated. We recommend seasoning Francesca’s shoulder with an Equipment shirt and a J.W.Anderson skirt. Add sautéed gloves by Bora Aksu x Agnelle and shoes by Jacquemus. Alternatively, you can prepare Xavier’s shoulder in a marinade of jumper, shirt and trousers by Raf Simons, with a flat-leaved Camper shoe garnish. The measurer wears a top by Les Benjamins, trousers by Levi’s Made & Crafted and shoes by Prada, throughout.


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Long necks, like Xavier’s (left) give stock added body and richness, especially in gravies when browned to a shade akin to his clothes by Paul Smith

There are several sizes and grades of frogs’ legs, but the finest are those presented on a bed of clothes by Toga, like the ones Francesca is wearing on the right.


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Caviar from the Beluga sturgeon has the biggest circumference of grains and is rich and creamy. It must always be served using a mother-of-pearl spoon to preserve the purity of the flavour. The caviar atop these Miu Miu sliders, left, is perfect with julienned Eudon Choi trousers. 

Pizzaioli have long used the consistency of the human earlobe as a measure for the perfect dough. On the right, Francesca has all the toppings with her waistcoat by Forte Forte, a blanched shirt by Kenzo, and a pomodoro-red skirt by Byblos paired with Marni polpette earrings. 


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“Not fashionable, not clever, not over-rich, but for my money the humble shortcrust is one of the best pastries of all.” From Delia’s How to Cook (1988) by Delia Smith. There are many ways to decorate a piecrust with a forked, herringbone, rope, pinched, scalloped or ruched edge, as seen on the edges of the Jacquemus dress-adorned top worn by Francesca (left). Vent the pie by topping it with a lattice of pastry strips woven together at angles of no more than 45º. Best eaten with trousers by Forte Forte.

“The curved line, relieved by a straight line, gives a pleasing, harmonious effect. Contrast of line and form are of equal importance and should be implemented in every design.” From Modern Cake Decoration (1964) by L.J. Hanneman. Right, Xavier wears a jacket by BOSS, a jumper by Bally, a striped shirt by Pringle of Scotland and a pin by Louis Vuitton.


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“The only certain way in which a mushroom may be identified is to know it thoroughly. Once its personality is established in the collector’s mind, he will recognise it as he would a friend.” From Field Book of Common Mushrooms (1936) by William Sturgis Thomas. Always inspect your Loewe bag (left), or rather your friend, with the utmost care. 

Reposadoor ‘rested’ tequila barely kisses the wood of its cask, but it nevertheless retains a straw-like hue... Whereas añejo or ‘aged’ tequila will take on a brown or amber shade.” From How the Gringos Stole Tequila: The Modern Age of Mexico’s Most Traditional Spirit (2015) by Chantal Martineau. Right, Xavier’s Gucci jumper has the two-toned appearance of both reposado and añejo tequila, which he wears atop a Gucci rollneck. Tequila is best served in Gucci glasses. 


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In Italy, pork collar is used to make coppa, unbrined ham. A typical pork collar is 90mm in diameter; J.W.Anderson’s clear plastic version (left) is only 70mm. Xavier wears his with a cardigan, also by J.W.Anderson.

The first recorded recipe for spotted dick appears in French chef Alex Soyer’s The Modern Housewife (1849). It calls for a kilogram of suet mixture rolled out into a sausage almost as long as Francesca’s spotted MSGM coat (right). Add Smyrna raisins, roll over, tie into a cloth and boil for one hour. Serve with custard, shorts and lightly whipped shoes by Blugirl.


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Ricky Lauren’s Hamptons Cookbook (2016) espouses the importance of the area’s “laid-back style”, something encapsulated in Xavier and Francesca’s clothes by Polo Ralph Lauren. The new Polo Ralph Lauren flagship has just opened at 169 Regent Street, London. 


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Before aluminium foil came tin foil, which was first marketed at the beginning of the 19th century. Heavier and less malleable than its aluminium counterpart, it also left food with the taste of tin. Marc Quinn’s foil-like bags for his limited-edition collaboration with Dior are embossed in leather with orchids. They are exclusively available at the House of Dior, 160-162 New Bond Street, London. All of Francesca’s clothes are by Dior.


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Boerewors, the South African variety of spiralled sausage, is typically braaied (grilled over an open fire). The Faustine Steinmetz variety can also be worn as a skirt and is especially delicious when paired with shoes by the same designer and a top by Richard Malone. Make sure to flip and cook both sides. 

Always inspect your fish before descaling: sea bass and bream have fingernail-like scales, which are never pleasant to eat, while mackerels’ are soft and inoffensive. The most delicious of them all are those on this top and trousers by Maison Margiela thanks to their smooth and shiny texture.


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Genuine Milanese osso buco uses only the finest veal shanks. Francesca’s shins look delicious in red-wine clothes and shoes by Sacai (left)

M&Ms, created in 1941, have an average circumference of 39.96mm, whereas Smarties, introduced in 1937, are 47.84mm around. The button on Francesca’s Emporio Armani top (right) has a circumference more akin to a Cadbury Dairy Milk Giant Button. Francesca’s earrings are also by Emporio Armani, while her trousers are by Marques’Almeida.


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The value we place on a meal is hugely affected by the orientation of the food on the plate. Recent studies have shown that triangular plating is most appealing, particularly when, as on Xavier’s top (left) – by Iceberg, like the rest of his clothes – the triangle points upwards. Point your triangle downwards, however, and it could be perceived as threatening, so should be avoided. 

Spumone is moulded Italian ice cream and is typically made of chocolate, strawberry and vanilla, mixed with nuts, fruits and occasionally, whipped cream, though other flavours can be used. Francesca has wisely combined her dark blueberry skirt and its hazelnut-coloured section, with a pale vanilla shirt, all of which are by Erika Cavallini.


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The body or mantle of a squid can be butterflied or cut into rings. A 10-metre-long “colossal” squid caught in 2007 would have produced calamari the size of tractor tyres. Xavier’s ring size is decidedly smaller than that and all his clothes are by Craig Green. Francesca wears a top and trousers by Tommy Hilfiger.

Photography: Sohrab Golsorkhi-Ainslie / Womenswear styling: Nobuko Tannawa / Menswear styling: Bobby Hook / Hair: Maki Tanaka using Bumble and bumble / Make-up: Natsumi Narita using MAC Cosmetics / Videography: Stine Deja / Photography assistant: Sam Henry / Styling assistant: Gabriele Rizzi / Models: Xavier at Select Model Management and Francesca Cioffi at Linden Staub